Solar Power Achieved!

When we first set eyes on Galapagos, one of her many charms was a pair of solar panels mounted, fetchingly, upon the hard dodger. Like any relationship that begins at the hormonal level, we overlooked some of the shortcomings that these solar panels might possess. For example, they were only 60 watts. Or that one was only putting out three volts.

One of the older Solar Panels. We were young(er) and in love. We did not notice that these were older polycrystalline cells. Or that they were shorted out.

Still, the mounting hardware was well placed and the all important wiring into the electrical system was good.  So, like any new and budding relationship, we set about to change the object of our affection to suit our ideal.

For this project, I chose to replace the existing panels with the Renogy Monocrystalline 100 watt panels.  This selection was made in part because of one of the cruising blogs we follow, Sundowner Sails Again. They installed the Renogy flexible type panels onto twin wall polycarbonate panels.  Also, the reviews on Amazon for these panels was glowing. We paid $320.00 for two one hundred watt panels, a 30 Amp charge controller and some rather nice but unnecessary electrical connectors. Check em out here: Renogy Solar Panel Bundle 200Watt: 2 100w Solar Panels

Since the old panels were the rigid style and the mounting hardware on our dodger was set up for that, I chose that style. However, I may buy a pair of the flexible panels and place those on the stern as Sundowner did or even on the foredeck when at anchor. Supposedly you can walk on the flexible panels which could be useful on our dodger as occasionally we have to climb up there to mess with the mainsail.  Still, it seems unwise to walk on solar panels.

The new panels. Slight modifications to the mounting brackets already installed on the dodger made installation fairly easy.

The new panels. Slight modifications to the mounting brackets already installed on the dodger made installation fairly easy.

The Renogy panels come with a small junction box mounted below which contains the blocking diodes and terminal connections to short cables fitted with MC4 connectors.  Two points here.

  1. The wires to the terminal board in the junction box were crimped but not soldered.  I went ahead and soldered the connections; it just seems like cheap insurance and I was a little disappointed that it had not been addressed during manufacture.
  2. The MC4 connectors seem to be a reliable, sturdy method of hooking these thing up. However, they are large and I would not drill a  hole into my dodger large enough to pass them through.  I ended up cutting them off and splicing on a length of 10/2 cable to the factory cable and then pushing that through the existing holes used by the old solar panels. That was then sealed up with Life Caulk.
A view of the cables hanging down inside the dodger. I re-used the holes drilled for the old panels.

A view of the cables hanging down inside the dodger. I re-used the holes drilled for the old panels.

The original panels had a controller mounted under the dodger not too far from where you see the black windshield wiper motor on the left in the photo above. I wanted to mount the new 30 amp controller inside, away from the elements and near where I could check the output along with the rest of our electrical devices. In a concession to the facts at hand, I re-used the old electrical cable that leads down to breaker panel and spliced all the cables together and ran the un-regulated voltage down stairs.  the cable leading down to the breaker panel is 12/2 which should be fine for the maximum of 11 amps that these two panels can put out. Snaking a larger cable through the existing raceways and holes was going to be a pain.

I hope I don't regret soldering all these connections. Electrically, it is superior, but if I ever have to modify the installation, it will be that much harder.

I hope I don’t regret soldering all these connections. Electrically, it is superior, but if I ever have to modify the installation, it will be that much harder.

Galapagos has an old but pretty well thought out breaker panel just next to the engine room and workshop.  The old solar system ran the regulated input to a 20 amp breaker on that panel. (there are actually two, one for the dodger panels and one for panels mounted astern) I was able to place the new charge controller on an unused portion of the panel, and then run the regulated output to that 20 amp breaker. This allows me to switch the charge controller in and out of the battery circuit with a simple flip of the breaker.

The blurry) Renogy Charge Controller.

The (blurry) Renogy Charge Controller. In the lower right corner, you can see the breaker labeled Solar Dodger. It is nice to be able to easily turn charging current off to the battery while working on the electrical system.

No project is ever complete without dressing up the wiring.  For this, I used some simple cable raceway with an adhesive backing that I cut to fit.  It isn’t perfect but it looks a sight better than a bunch of dangling cables.

Cable Concealers

Cable Concealers

I almost undid all of this work when I thought I would make sure the conduit would stay in place by driving a small screw into the base. What I actually did was drive a screw right through my freshly spliced cable! Fortunately, the screw missed all  wire and just barely nicked the insulation of the black wire.

Lucky Miss!

Lucky Miss! A little self annealing tape and we are as good as new.

So, now the question is, how well do the panels work?  I haven’t really had an opportunity to put them to a hard test yet.  Melissa and I spent a few hours sailing and anchored out on Vashon Island this past Sunday but that is hardly a test; We just don’t have a lot of current demands until the new refrigeration unit is installed.  Hopefully we will have our holding plate delivered next week and then we will be able to see if the two panels will be able to keep up.

The solar panels represent an important project completed prior to our Vancouver Island trip this July,  The dream is to be able to anchor in a seculded cove for four or five days without using the engine to top off the batteries.  I  have spent a lot of time insulating and sealing the icebox and if the refrigeration unit is as efficient as advertised, we hope to live off solar power exclusively.

Reefer Madness part 1

This being Washington and all, you know how we love our reefer.  Whether its Norcold, Cool Blue or Isotherm, we just can’t get enough of that stinky R134A refrigerant and the intoxicating effects of eating food free of mold and salmonella.

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Melissa really exploring the space as we re-insulate our reefer box.

Thus begins a large and critically important project on the long list of large and critically important projects aboard Galapagos.  There was no refrigeration system on the boat when we bought her but it did have a seemingly huge insulated box  (approximately 13 cubic feet).  To our eyes, it seemed very well made and would require only a properly sized refrigeration system to allow us to store all manner frozen foods, cold drinks and fresh vegetables.

The box.  You can see the  lower (freezer ?) door at the bottom

The box. You can see the lower (freezer ?) door at the bottom

If only any boat project were so simple.  A former owner of  Galapagos follows our blog and privately emailed me that the refrigeration system was a constant source of aggravation and expense for him.  He could never get the system to work efficiently.  His suggestion was to gut the entire arrangement and build up a new system.

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The lower door. While well made, it seems a bit awkward to access.

After looking at various drop in units at the Seattle Boat show, Melissa and I thought perhaps we should buy a nice drawer type unit made by Vitrifrigo. We even drove up to Sure Marine in Seattle to have a look at their systems.

Interestingly when we showed the salesman photos of the existing box, he was impressed and thought it unlikely we could do much better.  He believed a little extra insulation and a good holding plate system would be superior to anything we could buy off the shelf.  That was music to my ears as my vision of a huge freezer/refrigerator was revitalized.  I have mentioned Melissa’s insatiable lust for power in a previous post. A lot of that power goes into keeping food cold and I tend to perseverate on our batteries and their condition.

So now we started in earnest to improve the existing box and install our own cooling unit. At this point, I don’t need to remind you of how much we like doing things ourselves. We never let a little thing like complete ignorance on a subject stop us from forging ahead, making mistakes and figuring this stuff out as we go along.

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You could climb inside this box.

One of the more highly touted holding plate systems we have looked at is called CoolBlue by Technautics. We have met Rich Boren, The owner, two or three time at the Seattle Boat show, flogging a very efficient holding plate and air cooled compressor.  Every time I’ve met the guy, I came away impressed with him and the product. Reassured by our visit to Sure Marine, I emailed Rich with some photos of our existing box and asked him for advice.

Rich, although busy flying from one boat show to another was quick to reply to our email asking for his opinion on how to proceed.  In short, Rich saw the large size of the box and the freezer door opening at the bottom as being the two biggest problems.  Every time that freezer door was opened, the cold air would spill out and be replaced by warm, moist air.  Besides having to re heat all that air again, the moisture would cause a rapid build up of frost on the plate which would further reduce its efficiency.  His suggestion was to build a new insulated bottom with three or four inches of well sealed  polyisocyanurate insulation and cover it with plastic or fiberglass panels.

So for about a hundred dollars, I bought a sheet of one inch R-Max Insulation, a sheet of FRP panel and a roll of Extreme Temperature Metal Sealing Tape. Along with some adhesive and caulking, I proceeded to create a new, better insulated top loading box. Once committed to the project, my only worry was what the final volume of the box would be.

Cutting the panels.  Use a razor knife to score the back of the panel (the smooth side) and then bend it slowly over an edge. This makes a straight line without a saw and the attendant dust.

Cutting the panels. Use a razor knife to score the back of the panel (the smooth side) and then bend it slowly over an edge. This makes a straight line without a saw and the attendant dust.

Polyisocyanurate insulation has a higher R value than the commonly used extruded polystyrene (R6 vs. R5 per inch) but it does need to be carefully sealed as it will absorb moisture more readily,  The foil tape I used was very heavy duty and has a really tenacious adhesive.  I can see keeping a roll of that aboard for other projects.

Taping any exposed insulation is important.  Check for punctures in the foil backing and cover those too.

Taping any exposed insulation is important. Check for punctures in the foil backing and cover those too.

In order to get some of the larger pieces of insulation through the door, I had to cut one side of the foil and break the insulation in two.  Once inside the box and ready to be glued down I would tape over this exposed insulation.

In order to get some of the larger pieces of insulation through the door, I had to cut one side of the foil and break the insulation in two. Once inside the box and ready to be glued down I would tape over this exposed insulation.

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The back wall of the box has a bit of slope that needed some extra fill. I used the spray foam for this and other small gaps.

 

Once we had four inches of insulation on the bottom, we went around the entire perimeter with another round of tape.

Once we had four inches of insulation on the bottom, we went around the entire perimeter with another round of tape.

It was nice to see the fresh new panels going in. It makes the whole box look brand new.

It was nice to see the fresh new panels going in. It makes the whole box look brand new.

After laying in the new bottom, I started adding insulation to the sides.  At this point I was starting to count cubic inches. Adding an inch of insulation to the side of the box has the affect of reducing the volulme of the box by another third of a cubic foot.  But I knew that if this system was to work efficiently it would be better to add more insulation.  I ended up adding another inch to the two of the sides of the box and using Reflectix on the other two sides.

I added an additional inch to the sides that would be facing the hull and the in the new freezer section.

I added an additional inch to the sides that would be facing the hull and in the new freezer section.

All glassed in. Just need to caulk the edges.

All glassed in. Just need to caulk the edges.

A high contrast shot of the caulked edges.  In person, you can hardly tell the difference in color.

A high contrast shot of the caulked edges. In person, you can hardly tell the difference in color.

In the end, the box has a volume of about five cubic feet and it looks like a million bucks. The new FRP panels totally transformed the interior of the box.  In addition to this main box, we still have  the lower section with the door.  Hopefully this area will remain cool without robbing too much  energy from the refrigeration system.  We think this area will be like a crisper and at about two cubic feet, it represents a pretty sizeable space.

One result of the extra insulation is that the stock holding plate for the Cool Blue system would be slightly too large. The stock plate is also 2.5 inches thick which I worried would steal more volume.  Fortunately Rich Boren will provide a smaller plate that will just fit.  That will be delivered next week.  Stay tuned for the next episode of Reefer Madness.

 

Workshop Makeover: Luxury or Necessity?

Owning a large, complicated machine means you need tools, and a place to work on said large, complicated machine.  This is true for a boat, a house or a car.  In case you missed it the last 25 times, Galapagos has a great workshop area; storage and a proper bench with a vice and lots of hammers for wanging on stuff.

The shop before we even owned Galapagos.  A bit messy but full of potential.

The shop before we even owned Galapagos. A bit messy but full of potential.

I won’t lie, I am proud to have a boat with a workshop. It feels like a luxury that I could never have imagined on our boat. But it is a practical luxury, especially if you intend to live and cruise for extended periods.  Both Melissa and I would far rather repair or build something ourselves than to wait for someone to do it for us. If something is broken, at a minimum I want to beat on it with a hammer for a bit just to make sure it stays broken.

So, while the shop is a great resource on Galapagos, there were some fundamental issues that kept the area from being as useful as we would like.  Firstly, the bench top was hinged which opened to reveal what I think was originally a sail locker. Now, all manner of tools, paints, unguents and rags reside in this large, incoherent space.

The workbench raised to reveal the large storage area.  Lots of room but awkward.

The workbench raised to reveal the large storage area. Lots of room but awkward to access.

You can see the problem here.   If  I’ve just torn apart a winch on the bench top and Melissa needs the paint stored beneath, somebody has to wait or clean up their mess. Of late, there is always some project going on and bits and pieces inevitably are left out.  In the photos you can see a cut out in the Fiberglas front that does give some access to the contents below but even that is an issue since stuff just always seems to be creeping out of that hole. Never the stuff you actually need at the moment though.

So, with a year of using this area under our belts, we had some ideas that we hoped would transform the shop into a more practical work area.  I spend a lot of time here and I wanted a space that I would enjoy for years to come.

While we both are pretty skilled at general carpentry, we realized that this project would require a higher level of competence than either of us could muster.  Fortunately, we met Larry Simonds from KnotEtAl.com when we were slipmates and he was working on a Cal 34.  Larry built a great drop down table for our Cal 34, Moonrise at that time, and he has done other small projects over the years. As a sailor and a woodworker, Larry has an appreciation of the vagaries of boat geometry. Together with his discerning eye for color and woodgrain, he is really a fine furniture maker. Fortunately for us, he likes to hang about the docks and can be plied with beer.  Be sure to check out his site for other examples of his work.

Larry Simonds: Chief, cook and bottle washer of Knot Et Al Woodworking.

Larry doing a little boat yoga

Larry doing a little boat yoga

Armed with our ideas and Larry’s skills, we set about to transform the space.  First on the agenda was to build drawers and tip outs into the space. With drawers, we could access items without having to raise the bench top.  The downside to this approach is that we lost some space but the space we do have is much more usable.  Larry made the drawers as long as possible, almost 22 inches to maximize storage. He also blended the stain to match the existing 40 year old coloring of the surrounding wood.  That’s how he rolls.

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Three slideout drawers with catches plus a beautiful Red Elm top. Organizing is still a work in progress.

Since the hull shape greatly restricts the length of the drawers lower down, Larry decided to steal an idea from another drawer on Galapagos and build tip outs for the bottom.  These are used for storing lighter items and I have already dedicated one to rags and nitrile gloves.

 

 

Tip out drawers at the bottom provide storage of smaller, lighter items.

Tip out drawers at the bottom provide storage of smaller, lighter items.

For the bench, Larry had a piece of Red Elm which is just beautiful.  In fact, I am a little afraid to use it as it is just too pretty. Melissa put a vinyl covering on the old bench and I think that might be a good idea for this one as well.

Too pretty for a workbench

Too pretty for a workbench

Now that I can move into this new space, some hard decisions are in order.  I knew that I would lose some volume for storage but I minimized that fact. Now I want to have all of the tools plus our great collections of screws, nuts, bolts, washers and other boat bits all in the same area.  It simply isn’t possible and some compromises will have to be made.  Melissa will come down and help me think this through.  She can see things that elude me.

So, luxury, necessity or a little of both?