Rainforest Adventures: Tree Creatures

It’s the post everyone has been waiting for, especially the people not so jazzed about rainforest insects. Yes: Monkeys! We saw several species of monkeys, starting at the Planeta Azul hostel where we spent the night before the tour began. We saw Black Mantled Tamarins, Pygmy Marmosets, Yellow Handed Titi Monkeys, Spider Monkeys, Squirrel Monkeys, Monk Saki Monkeys, and Brown Woolly Monkeys. We heard a troop of Howler Monkeys in the distance, but we didn’t get a sighting of them. Our guide had an amazing ability to spot monkeys from a distance in the trees, even when they were not moving around. Such eyes! Wish I had been able to photograph all the monkeys we saw but sometimes the binoculars were the tool of choice.

Black Mantled Tamarin. We hung around in hammocks watching these guys steal bananas (yes, really!) from the outdoor kitchen. 

Black Mantled Tamarin

Part of the Black Mantled Tamarin troop.

Pygmy Marmoset. My personal favorite. These moved very slowly along the branches, as though trying not to call attention to themselves. The Black Mantled Tamarins would chase them when the opportunity came. 

Pygmy Marmoset

It’s a baby Pygmy Marmoset. Squueeeee!

Squirrel Monkey

Squirrel  monkey flying through the air

 

I’m thinking this is Monk Saki Monkey.

 

Rainforest Adventures: Night Creatures

‘Tonight we walk in the rainforest with flashlights. We will look for insects, reptiles, and amphibians. We will leave in 15 minutes’.  Our guide, Diego, was ready to rumble. We grabbed flashlights, rubber boots, and cameras and cautiously set out into the woods, not really knowing what to expect, but hoping to see something cool. The woods were wet with the day’s heavy rain. The night was black. Night creature noises were everywhere. We took some deep breaths and ventured forth.

A Katydid shaped like a leaf. Size is about 3 inches.

The photos tell the tale of this part of our rainforest adventure. Let’s just say we all went carefully, being mindful not to touch anything before looking.

A cute little frog. 

I cannot even remember what this thing is called. It was huge – 6-7 inches, which, to me, is big enough that it should just go ahead and be a mammal. He was pretty gross, to be clear.

A nice fat toad.

A tiny little tree frog; only about 2 inches long.

We think it’s a moth caterpillar of some kind. Note that the leaf he is on (which is half way eaten by him) is about 10 inches wide. Everything seems big in the rainforest.

Diego picked up this ‘scorpion spider‘, which is actually an insect. I didn’t get too close a look at it because ugh. I was lucky to still be on the forest walk by this time.

Killer “Banana spider”. Apparently this spider is responsible for several deaths per year in the banana fields. I don’t know the Latin name.

Large and interesting caterpillar.

A tarantula, tempted out of her burrow by a twitching stick. She grabbed it pretty fast. We found two of these, skulking in their burrows.

A lucky find, this small praying mantis only a couple of inches long.

A mantis molting. Another lucky find.

A nice little katydid, just a normal size.

The next evening’s activity was Caiman Lizard spotting. We took spotlights out on the lake to look for eyes reflecting in the water. We located a tree boa by shining the light up into the trees that grow in the water. The eyes glow, kind of like spotting raccoons. Then we spotted this guy. He was about 7 feet long. 

When the sun went down in the rainforest, I realized after the first night that I had actually forgotten about something I would have to deal with during this trip. I wrote about my phobia of a certain type of bug in this post on anxiety last year. What’s interesting to me is that I never even thought about these bugs the whole time I was planning this part of the trip. It never occurred to me that cockroaches (YIkes! I actually typed the word!) were ubiquitous in the rainforest. I’m not sure what to think about that. In fact, as knowledgeable as I am about anxiety and phobias, I am confused by this fact.  I literally did not think of it, even though for decades you would not have been able to get me near a place where i knew for sure I would be faced with them. As a rule, I am on alert for them pretty much constantly anywhere south of San Fransisco. That’s not an exaggeration.

I was absolutely fine with never one intrusion into my psyche until I went to our room the first night and there was a rather large ugly one on the curtain. I was absolutely floored. I’m glad to say that while I definitely reacted negatively to it, and Mike did have to dispatch the nasty thing, it didn’t make me want to go home and really made me more angry than anything else. However, after that, I saw them everywhere in the evening, as soon as the sun went down. There are many species. And they all appear to live in the rainforest. One night at dinner, a large one landed on Mike’s back and I almost climbed out of my own skin. I thought I was going to die of complete disgust. It still makes me shudder to think of it, and I will probably live with that image for a long time. But I made myself sit back down at the table and finish dinner. That was very hard, but it just made me furious that such a thing might interfere with my good fun.  I didn’t want to leave because as afraid as I was, I wanted so much to be there and so much to see all the other animals, and even insects, we were seeing. I wasn’t going to let this ruin my time.

Of course, we were many miles out in the middle of nowhere, at least a two hour boat ride from the nearest road. There wasn’t actually anyplace I could go. Phobias are real fun destroyers. Had I not had many tools for handling anxiety at my disposal, including challenging thought patterns, breathing exercises, and anti-anxiety medication, I could have had a pretty bad time in the evenings after that. Those bugs grow really big in the rainforest, and on the night walk I discovered, to my dismay, that they were really common, sitting on lots of leaves. There was one as big as a hamster guarding our bedroom door one evening. Let me tell you this: I’ve made real progress if I can sleep through the night after that.

You’ll note there are no photos of the cockroaches. There. I typed the word again. Cockroaches. Cockroaches. You won’t make me miss out on my life, you disgusting creatures from hell. I wish I could learn to love you. I’m pretty far from that, but at least I’m learning you won’t make me die. Deep, deep breath. Deep, long, slow breath. Stop wringing your hands. Deep, stillness breath. 

 

Portraits of Pinnipeds

Back in the land of the interweb I am faced with putting words to two days that will be among the highlights of my own life. Between storm systems, we made it to San Miguel Island to see the Elephant Seals (and California Sea Lions and Harbor Seals, and possibly Northern Fur Seals but I cannot be sure). San Miguel is one of the most remote Channel Islands, and it is the most regulated in terms of shore access. Home to huge colonies of Pinnipeds of 5 different kinds; it’s a wildlife lover’s dream destination. Hiking is limited on the island without an accompanying Park Ranger. But even if you never set foot on the island itself, it’s worth the effort to get there.

This guy was the one making the most noise and challenging the most mock duels. As the male’s proboscis develops over a period of years as the animal matures, he’s probably the oldest male on this beach. 

For me, arriving at this destination was like entering the Magic Kingdom, or at least, it was like being in an episode of  Mutual of Omaha’s Wild Kingdom. In other words: a dream come true. Some people would scoff at the idea that seeing a bunch of silly seals, lined up like sugar-spinkled buns on a beach, could be a highlight of an otherwise interesting and fulfilling life. But those are people who do not know me very well. Fortunately, Mike is not one of them.

Married to this man for 35 years, he knows my love of wild places and watching animals in their ‘natural habitats’. He joins me in our little games of ‘Wild Kingdom’ where he gets to play Jim Fowler to my Marlin Perkins, or vice versa. We both grew up watching and loving that TV show, among others of the same ilk. Those shows made lasting impressions on our developing psyches. I majored in Animal Behavior and Ecology in my undergraduate education. And while I didn’t end up getting a job in that field (Hello, Reagan years.) I have never lost my sense of wonder and love for wild creatures. For me, this cruising trip is about seeing wildlife; as much and as often as possible. I enjoy the towns and cities, but it’s  wildlife, not nightlife, that I’m really after.

These sweet faces!

We arrived at San Miguel in the early afternoon and dropped anchor in Cuyler Cove, right next to a beach with Elephant Seals!*  I could hear them grunting and calling and watch the young males jousting with each other, practicing for the day when they would challenge other males for the privileges only a dominant male can earn. Here’s a note from my cruising log:

Anchored in 15 feet of clear green water in Cuyler Cove, the beach is home to Elephant Seals! We easily watch them sparring with one another and hear their gutteral grunts from the cockpit of the boat. The adolescent males, almost adults, pair off and spar, practicing for when they are old enough to mate. So interesting to notice the insides of their mouths are blood red, even though no blood has been spilled. 

Today we got here just as the sight seeing boat was leaving. “Three Hour Tour, Time to Board! Three Hour Tour, Time to Board!” was broadcast through the anchorage. They were quickly gone and we have the entire cove to ourselves. Just us and the seals! I look forward to sleeping to the sounds of their growly voices through the open hatch. Why would anyone ever want to miss this? It’s spectacular. 

If you had asked me 10 years ago if I would ever be watching elephant seals spar from my own boat at San Miguel Island I would have laughed. Who’s laughing now? A warm wind is blowing 10-15 knots and I lay wrapped in a light blanket in the cockpit, listening to grunting seals and watching zillions of stars. It’s still fairly early in the evening and it occurs to me that even in the Gulf Islands of British Columbia, to see this many stars you have to be up in the middle of the night. What a change a change in latitude brings. The peaceful rocking of the boat, complete darkness of the land, and brilliance of the stars; unspeakable.”

Who will win the coming contest?

This face!

These are all photos taken from the dinghy of the seals on the beach close by where we are anchored. I could have watched these guys all day long. By the time we left, I felt like I was getting to know their individual personalities.

More on the Pinnipeds of San Miguel in the next post. S/V Galapagos, out.

 

 

*Elephant Seals are protected under the Marine Mammal Protection Act. In addition, San Miguel Island has special closures during certain times of the year to protect the breeding habits of the species that use those grounds. Between April 30 and October 1, boating is restricted to 300 yards from shore. During our time there, it was restricted the usual 100 yards. We stayed more than 100 yards offshore, even in our dinghy. All photos are taken with a telephoto lens, then cropped to get a closer look.