Mexico a Go – Go!

Today we are posting from sunny La Paz, Mexico on the brilliant Sea of Cortez. It’s our first day in Mexico and let me tell you it’s been full of hilarity. This is truly a foreign land, even if it is full of expats who speak the English; even if it does remind us terribly of Del Rio, Texas, where we first started out as a married couple. The fact that we are here celebrating 30 years of wedded bliss makes that all the more apropos. We have laughed out loud so many times today we had to share.

It began with the red button. When we landed at the La Paz airport, disembarking the plane in sunny 88 degree weather, we were shepherded into the terminal to a line where extremely efficient and nice immigration men stamped our passports and moved us on to the customs agents. This is where the fun began. My suitcase already having passed through their drug/bomb detectors, I approached the serious customs official who looked me in the eye, asked if I had anything to declare. When I said “No” in my best Spanish, he then pointed to a small kiosk and commanded me to “Push the Red Button”. Understanding immediately my role in protecting Mexican Security and Freedom, and acting on a complete leap of trust, I pushed the red button located on the kiosk.  A green light flashed. Apparently this means I was no threat to national security, so I was passed through without further incident.

Then it was Mike’s turn. Mike declared nothing and also was told to “Push the Red Button”. You will not be surprised to learn that Mike is the kind of freedom hater that the red button’s complex circuitry is designed to ferret out. A red light flashed when he pushed the red button.  Mike was tagged for a suitcase check. I had long suspected Mike of being a drug mule and now, here was my proof. I watched as the customs man opened Mike’s suitcase, casually rifled through his boxers, closed the suitcase, shrugged, and moved Mike along. Wow! What a difference a country makes! We left to get our rental car.

After learning that the horror stories about renting a car in Mexico are, in fact, true; that the cost is at least twice what you are quoted on Expedia, we were treated to detailed instructions about what our ‘required’ insurance does not cover. This includes damage to the car if we use it to push another car. I had to have this one clarified as it was more than a language barrier that had me confused. It also doesn’t cover us if the police stop us. Good to know. We get in our little car; sans electric door locks or windows and start the engine. Immediately we are transported back to bombing around the south Texas countryside in our 1978 Toyota Corolla as the car’s radio begins blasting Mexican Nortena music. Let the fun begin!

After turning the wrong way on Highway 1, because in this part of Mexico there is no directional signage in terms of which way the highway is actually going, Mike managed to narrowly avoid hitting a bicyclist who was traveling the wrong way out of the Home Depot parking lot. Continuing on to find a place to turn around, we were pleased and relieved that Mike also avoided hitting the pedestrian who suddenly appeared out of no where, in the middle of a busy road. Still recovering from the adrenaline rush, stunned with amazement and laughter, we watched open-mouthed as a one-legged clown suddenly and without warning, emerged between the cars ahead of us. One-legged clowns are a rarity in the Pacific Northwest, and Mike was ecstatic to spot one within 20 minutes of arriving in Mexico. I dearly hope that the extra insurance we bought covers grinding gears because Mike could barely remember how to drive a stick he was laughing so hard. So far this trip was totally worth it!

Mike squealed a u-turn, which is completely legal where we were and I mean it, hoping to catch site of the wounded clown. “Slow down, Mike! What the hell are you doing? Do you want to get us killed or ticketed?”   “Relax woman! When in Rome…”  I closed my eyes. Alas, we had to stop at a red light. But wait! There’s more! As we’re sitting at the traffic light, another clown appears, holding juggling pins, a stool, and blowing a whistle. I am not making this up. See photo below. He sits directly in front of us juggling and blowing the whistle for all he was worth. The police officer in the car next to us didn’t even flinch. I guess this is just business as usual in La Paz. And you KNOW what is going to happen next, don’t you? Just before the light turns green he hops down off his stool and begins his route between the cars, hand out, expectantly. I’m wielding the camera, Mike is struggling with his wallet, where there is a 500 Peso bill, a 20 dollar bill, a 5 dollar bill, but no 1 dollar bills. The clown gets the 5 dollar bill, and that was a small price to pay for such entertainment as we had. Totally worth it!

You see? You can't make stuff like this up.

Just hooting with laughter, we finally make it to the Casita, which is just lovely. I took a dip in the hot tub. Mike tried his hand at getting into the hammock. I’ll just let the photos speak for him:

It's going to be totally worth it, Mike!

Still working it.

Ahh! Mike's a little new at this whole hammock-relaxing gig.

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Dinner next door at the local restaurant was filled with American-tourist action as we had left our Spanish phrase books back at the casita. No one at the restaurant spoke English, which is just as well since this is Mexico. After ordering a fabulous dinner, we were ready to go. How to get the check? My pidgeon French came back to me, but the sweet waitress just shook her head.  Again, wrong country. Mike tried to use the word ‘billetet’. Don’t have a clue where that came from. Finally I rubbed my fingers together, the international sign for ‘money’. “La cuente!”, the waitress cried, nodding eagerly. I thought that meant “Thank you, Jesus!” but I soon learned it means ‘the check’. We all nodded eagerly, we paid, and walked home. Tomorrow we will return, Spanish phrase books at the ready.

Now there is a pretty good rock band playing at the restaurant on the other side of us. It’s playing music from the 1970’s, and we have an entire patio under the stars, with a hot tub. All to ourselves. So far, this vacation rocks!

 

Midlife Girl’s Further Adventures, and Words of Wisdom*

*Because life is too short to be bored.

Ballroom Ruin, with orbs.

Day two of our most recent Blanding adventure and I have more tips for you midlife rock climbers out there. Today we hiked the northern part of Butler Wash to the end of the wash. It’s about a 5 mile hike there and out with side trips to see ruins and climb around on rocks hoping to find more ruins and generally enjoying the scenery. This is a great time to hike Butler Wash because you don’t have to fight your way through a lot of vegetation in the wash. The reeds are just beginning to show their heads, and the willows are not leafed out yet. I’m imagining that in the summer this wash would be hot, humid, and sticky.

The first ruin we encountered is called Ballroom Cave and the reasons are obvious when you see how huge this cave is. There wasn’t a lot of opportunity to climb big rocks at this ruin, but the ruin itself is really cool. You’ll notice that in the photos of Ballroom cave there are a lot of orbs suddenly. Now, there are many opinions about what these orbs actually are. Many people think they represent dust in the atmosphere. That’s certainly possible inside this cave. Other people believe orbs in photos represent a kind of spiritual presence that shows up digitally. I don’t know. But they are only present in the photos taken in Ballroom Cave, so you be the judge. They do make a cool photo.

Part of the Ballroom Cave ruin.

You can see the size of this cave! That's Andrew in the far reaches, over by the bat guano.

We continued down the wash to find ruin number two, and here is where my ‘words of well-earned wisdom’ come into play. Ruin number two was way high up on a ledge, far above the floor of the wash. There would be climbing required.

Ruin number 2. From this perspective, it seems low. It isn't.

As usual, Andrew scouted ahead to find the best route. Determining that we would have to climb the huge slickrock in order to reach the first ledge, he went ahead of me. My first words of wisdom are: always take your almost-20 year old son with you. These sons come in very handy when scouting the most appropriate route up a rock. They also can give you a hand up when required. Especially when your midlife body is reeling from the previous day’s adventure, almost-20 year old sons are without equal in the usefulness department.

Here I am doing the 'Spider Monkey' up the slickrock to reach the first ledge. The cottonwoods below are probably 80 feet tall.

The ‘spider monkey’ posture is the most useful posture when scaling really steep rock. The proper method is to keep your center of gravity low and forward, keep your eyes on what you are doing, and don’t look down. Never, never look down. Look forward only, every few steps to make sure you are not going to land on a cactus. I am not in complete posture in this photo as the complete posture requires all four appendages be touching the ground. Vary this posture with the ‘four wheel drive’ and eventually you will reach the top. Once there you may give yourself permission to eat jerky and trail mix because you’ve earned it.

Andrew demonstrates his superior youthful abilities. Let's pretend that I went up the same way, okay? Excellent.

So eventually, I do reach the first ledge, only to be confronted with a completely vertical wall that required scaling in order to reach the ruin. I ask Andrew if it’s worth it. He says it’s worth it not to fail. I sigh, knowing I might regret this, but not wanting to live a boring life.

The wall of doom.

See that little U-shaped area in the wall? That’s the area we had to climb as it had the most possible footholds. There was a ton of loose sand in this area. The wall probably won’t be there 100 years from now as it’s just crumbling. But that part is only about 15 feet high. Andrew climbed up first, then I handed up my backpack and began my ascent. I figured that if I fell, it would be a controlled fall and I’d land on soft sand. I’d be bruised, but not dead.

But I didn’t fall. I used the ‘wall hugger’ technique and braced myself with knees and thighs, shimmying my way up until I was almost through the U shape. Then I had to turn and brace my back against the wall, pushing with my knees and feet until I could get my elbow over the ledge and grab a log that someone had thoughtfully placed just back from the opening, secured with two good rocks. I was feeling mighty successful.

And then I realized that I had left my camera in my back pocket.

My track record with digital cameras is abysmal. Two years ago I ruined my last good camera by rolling my kayak. And I was close to shore! It wasn’t even a good story! Just a stupid one.

So my words of wisdom for this day are: never shimmy up a crumbly sandstone wall, bracing your body weight against your rear end when you have your digital camera in your back pocket. I am not making this up. You should definitely not do this. It ruins your camera. By ‘ruin’ I mean that this causes the camera to not be able to work due to sand ground into the mechanism. Digital cameras do not like this very much. 🙁

We are in big cat country here. I'd love to see a mountain lion, as long as it was on one side of the wash and I was on the other. Lots and lots of big cat tracks, though. Pretty cool.

 

 

Midlife Girl’s Guide to Rock Climbing*

*Because life is short enough without being bored.

In order to reach this 800 year old ruin in Butler Wash, a few rocks had to be climbed.

 

Here we are in scenic Blanding, Utah, land of opportunity: to see endless sky,  get dirty, sunburned, slide down rocks, go further than you should go, see ancient ruins and, of course, CLIMB ROCKS! While Mike is suffering under the tutelage of managment/excutive types at Boeing’s Leadership Institute in St. Louis (Wah! Sorry, honey. We miss you!), I’ve been spending our anniversary with Andrew hiking the desert down in Blanding, Utah, motto: at least 300 miles from anywhere. This is our 4th trip down here together with Mike and Claire joining us on one trip. This is where I come when I’ve had just about enough of the cold, wet, dark weather we enjoy 9 months of the year in Tacoma. Coming to southern Utah clears my mind, cleanses my soul, and generally acts like a good chimney cleaning for my entire being. I get warm from the inside out.  I love it here. Until I can enjoy the endless expanses of ocean from the deck of a boat, I will come down here and enjoy the endless expanses of desert as often as I can.

With that in mind, I offer ‘Midlife Girl’s Guide to Rock Climbing’, Utah style. I don’t know about you, but I simply refuse to stop climbing on rocks just because I’ve hit middle age. The big rocks here positively hum under my hands with the most gentle earthy feeling. They are absolutely nothing like the rocks in Washington, so full of fire and action. These rocks are gentle, old, settled in. These rocks are positively nurturing.  So rather than stop, because a boring life is just unthinkable, I’ve determined that the correct approach to rock climbing is to simply adapt my techniques. Maybe I used to be a mountain goat, but I now find myself feeling more akin to certain other animals. The photos and captions tell the story.

The Snake. Useful for traveling up the side of steep rocks. Lean into the rock and then ripple your stomach muscles. No, I didn't know I had any there, either. Trust me. They will grip the rock, enabling a slow but sure slither uphill until you reach the ledge.

You will feel like this when the mission is accomplished. No wusses allowed on these rocks! Note filthy shirt. I don't care.

The Four Wheel Drive. This position is useful when the rock is too difficult to stand on, but not steep enough for the 'Snake' posture.

The gecko, for completely vertical rock faces. Okay, okay. Yes, the photo is actually turned. But it looks really bad ass, right? I actually do not have sticky pads on my feet and hands. This is the 'Spider Monkey' position for those times when you have a good hand hold and want to walk your feet up to your hands before letting go. A VERY useful position.

Rock hugger, when you must become one with the rock in order to make it across a ledge. Kissing the rock is permitted, and may ensure safe passage. Lots of big cat prints in this area, but no big cats to be seen.

Mastering these skills will allow you to access sites like this:

Taken at the Butler Wash ruin.Not many modern masons can touch the perfection of the geometric shapes in this ancient place. Andrew and I heard voices, but there was no one there. Glad Andrew heard them, too.

 

Two more days in Blanding! Now for a hot bath and a few ibuprofen.