Betty

 

This is a post I wrote while we were in Monterey. I’ve been sitting on it because it’s not my usual Little Cunning Plan fare, but I feel like publishing it now. It’s a true story. Every bit of it.

 

We’re sitting here at anchor in Monterey, my favorite place we’ve been so far. The weather is perfect. We’re anchored off a sandy beach where seals, sea lions, and sea otters live in the kelp forest below the surface. Our friends Kevin and Cressie Baerg from Gig Harbor are here on their Cal 2-46, S/V Blue, and yesterday we spent the entire day visiting the incredible Monterey Bay Aquarium. To be sure, I’ve never seen a place this close to humanity where there is such a sheer abundance of wildlife. Standing on the observation deck at the aquarium, we watched a humpback whale feed in the kelp forest below. Sea lions. Birds. Sea Otters. Betty would have been in heaven. She adored otters. She was crazy about them.

A kelp forest at the aquarium. Stunning.

Betty was a special client of mine for about 15 years off and on, and I’d like to tell you a little bit about her.  It’s hard to put the complexity of a human spirit in just a few paragraphs. But Betty’s been on my mind a lot, anchored here in Monterey watching the otters swim. She would have been over the moon with happiness. She loved otters so much that during our summer cruises I would take photos of river otters and, in 2015 Sea Otters off the west coast of Vancouver Island, and when I returned, our first session would be a double session so we could spend the first hour looking over photos of the trip, and especially the otters.

Betty was very excited about this long term cruising thing we’re doing. She followed the blog and left lots of comments, some of them in the form of poetry. She had been in the Navy just after the big war and was ‘crazy’ about the ocean and ships, lighthouses, pretty much anything connected to the sea. Betty’s emotions were big and loud and full of life. When she liked something she liked it in a big way.

Some sea otters off Ano Neuvo, north of Monterey.

I met Betty just after her husband had been given his death sentence in the form of a diagnosis of Asbestosis. He and Betty had met just after WWII when they both served in the Navy. He had been exposed to asbestos during his military service. Now he would die of it. She wanted to prepare herself as best she could. Thus I began a long and interesting relationship with this most unusual woman.

What to say about Betty? She was a big, strong woman with powerful, broad hands.  Her voice, low, loud, and gravelly, was a little bit Lauren Bacall, a little bit Frank Morgan. For a woman whose mother wished she had been a boy, Betty refused to be relegated to the shadows. She called attention to herself by her sheer force of personality. She never met a stranger, gave money to people too willingly, got devastated by their ultimate betrayal of her, and never let those disappointments change her open nature.

As quick as she was to love, her temper was hot and mercurial at home.  It was her one biggest regret, that temper. She often wondered how it had affected her children, if it had caused some of the considerable problems her son had in life. A parent’s guilt over past behavior is a hard thing. 

I saw Betty through her husband’s death and then she came back to learn how to grieve in her own way. Betty took umbrage with society’s rules about grieving widows and how they should act. People kept insisting that she needed ‘something to do’, that she should ‘get out of the house’, ‘go volunteer somewhere’. She was having none of it. I didn’t blame her. She had been bossed around by a controlling mother who never thought she was adequately feminine, had been in the military, had raised her kids, had worked for the school system. She had taken care of a terminally ill spouse. And I guess she was tired of being told what to do. Betty didn’t want the loss of her husband to suck all the joy of living out of her life but she also knew her own mind. I admired her for that. I used to tell Betty, ‘You’ve lived a long and productive life. You can grant yourself permission to do whatever the hell you want. ‘.  Betty and I talked that way to one another.

Betty was not a religious person. Very likely there are too many rules in religion to have suited her. But she had a firm belief in God as the organizing and creative force of the universe, and she had a strong belief in the afterlife. She wasn’t exactly sure how it worked, but she knew there was SOMETHING after death. She lived as she said she believed. She felt her husband, Bill, was still with her, feeling that connection still there. Exploring her spiritual beliefs and developing that self awareness was a real focus for her, as it should have been at her age of 80+ years. Dreams, the unconscious mind, and the afterlife. It’s what our sessions were made of.

Betty used to dream about factories. She’d be walking through a big factory, busy with manufacturing one thing or another. Over the years it came to symbolize her own life force. If the factory was humming along, things were going ok. If she was wandering around aimlessly in the factory, it meant she needed to focus on something. Sometimes these dreams were reassuring to her, other times they gave her a heads up that she needed to change something; a sleep habit usually. Betty was a terrible sleeper.

On Galapagos, I have a little box of talismans that represent things I love. This sea otter Beanie Baby belonged to Betty. Her housekeeper brought it to me one day, saying she thought Betty would want me to have it.

Betty outlived her husband and her son. She was no stranger to death. Over the years Betty and I came to an agreement about death. We figured the odds were she would die before I did, being that much older than me. We agreed that whoever died first would find a way to come and tell the other one that all was well, that we were fine and moving on to the next grand adventure, whatever that was. Although the conversations were light hearted in nature, perhaps there was more to them than just humorous banter.

One day Betty arrived for her session carrying a big bottle of water. She said her doctor had found a small issue with her kidneys and wanted her to drink a lot of water. It was just a small thing, not to worry. Her dreams told a different story. She had not had a healthy ‘factory’ dream in months. The last few she had reported had her wandering in a factory that wasn’t producing anything, confused about why she was there and what she was supposed to be doing. I was on the alert that I was witnessing the beginning of the end of Betty’s life on earth, even though she didn’t know it.

And so it came to pass. Big, strong Betty contracted some kind of virus that was making the rounds that year and she lost consciousness at home. She was taken to the hospital, where her kidneys began to shut down. I went to visit her, although she was unconscious; not even breathing on her own. I offered what comfort I could to the stunned family, who had not predicted this would be her last few days. I held Betty’s hand and said goodbye to her.

That’s a another hard thing; when you know that a person is dying, but the family cannot come to terms with it yet. They were not quite ready to let her go. And so she stayed and rallied a bit, as is so often the case. She began breathing on her own, her kidney functions improved. I’ll say one thing for Betty: she had a strong will.

That time when river otters took over our dinghy.

She was moved to a nursing facility, which she hated. She wanted to go home but her kidney functions continued to decline and she began to swell alarmingly. The nursing facility needed her to go to the emergency room so they could give her intravenous medications to get some of the water out of her body. Betty had refused to go. I was called to the room to have a talk with her.

And so we talked while she lay in the bed and tried to get comfortable in her swollen skin. We talked about how she was afraid to go to the Emergency Room. She expressed she was afraid to go because she knew that if she went she would never come back. And she was afraid of what that meant. We talked about the fact that staying in the nursing facility meant that she would certainly die, no matter what, because they didn’t have the tools there to do what was necessary. I was just frank with her, as she expected me to be. I’m kind of a straight shooter anyhow, but with Betty, well, she expected no less of me. And yet, to tell someone they are going to die, well, that’s a little too straight, know what I mean? Words are powerful and come with a great deal of responsibility. She had to come to that realization on her own.

I will never forget the moment when Betty realized that she was really and truly going to die. That this was it, the end of her road on the planet. She gave a great sigh and looked me straight in the eye. Then suddenly she said, ‘Ok. I’ll go.’  We agreed that whatever happened, live or die, she would be OK. ‘Don’t forget our deal, Betty. I’ll see you later.’, I said. I gave her a hug. Betty was big on hugs.  The nurses wasted no time getting Betty ready to be transported. They couldn’t believe she was going willingly.

Later that day I got a call from Betty’s housekeeper. Betty had lost consciousness between the nursing facility and the ER, which was right across the parking lot.  Medical personnel were going through all the heroic and invasive procedures that hospitals are required to do to save a person, even one who is finished living in their body. The family was coming to terms with it now. They had let her know they would be ok if she went now. I went to the hospital to offer what comfort I could and tell Betty goodbye again. This time, I felt sure she would go.

This otter lives in the marina.

The last time I saw Betty she was strapped to a gurney and the nurses were chatting amiably to one another as they started a pic line on her. They knew it was a wasted effort. I could have felt sorry for Betty having to go through that, but I knew Betty didn’t care. She was already gone. That’s how Betty operated. Once she made up her mind about something, it was as good as done. She might take forever to make a decision, but when it was done, so be it.

I stood and looked at her for awhile, letting it sink in that what I was seeing was not my long term client and friend. It was her remains. I was glad that in the end, she had gone willingly and with some grace. It needed to be on her terms.

When I got home Mike was sitting in the chair by the window in the family room; the one that looks out over the little pond in the back yard. It was the middle of the day.  ‘How’d it go?’, he asked. I started to answer him, then stopped, open mouthed, the words stuck in my throat.  I just stared and pointed. I pointed at the huge otter ambling across our back yard.

“That’s an otter!” Mike cried, almost leaping out of the chair.

And it was. It was a huge river otter casually ambling through the garden and across the grass. It slithered through the little pond, out the other side, under the fence, and was away.

We’d lived in the house 16 years at that point. We are not next to a lake or river. We had never had an otter in our yard, and we’ve never had one since then. Both of us were too shocked to even get the camera. Struck dumb, we were.

A chorus line of otters.

You know what? I didn’t even make the connection right then. We were too stunned by the appearance of this animal to do anything but just shake our heads. It wasn’t until that night, as I lay falling asleep that it suddenly came to me.

“Oh my God! Betty!”, I said out loud. She had kept her end of the deal.

For several days I felt Betty’s presence. It was like she was talking to me, but in my head; the oddest thing I’ve ever experienced like that. I mean, Betty was a talker. But for maybe 3 days, I could not get her voice to be quiet. Then, just like the otter, she was gone. I couldn’t feel her there anymore, could not hear her voice in my head even if I tried. And I did try! Because it was just so weird, I had to try to create it myself. But I could not.

Now, as I visit this incredible place where there are these magnificent animals all around, I cannot help but think of Betty. Sometimes I think maybe she is with me. I listen carefully, putting out feelers as it were, but then I realize no, she is not. It’s just me, remembering her and hoping that wherever she is, there are otters to enjoy.

 

 

 

 

Exotic Bird Bingo

We’re still sitting here at anchor in the Pebble Beach/ Still Water area. Here’s why we’re still here: I lost one of my hearing aids. Not many people think about this, but having to wear hearing aids while traveling by boat is a pain in the ass. I usually need to wear them in order to be socially acceptable. If I am not wearing them, you’re going to notice me paying special attention to your mouth when you speak, and also many times it’s going to feel like I’m ignoring you because I can’t hear you. Not being able to hear is isolating and bad for your brain. So this loss of one of my digital ears was a significant one.

The stately Snowy Egret, hunting delicately from a raft of kelp.

Fortunately I bought my hearing aids at Costco and they are under warranty. So we Ubered it to Costco, got the replacement on order (free of charge!!), and were told it would be about a week before it would be in. High winds from the north were forecast for the area and our anchorage was completely exposed. We high tailed it around the corner to Still Water Cove/Pebble Beach. We’ve been here in this rolly but beautiful anchorage for 4 days now. It’s not really protected, just better than where we were.

The Brown Pelican. Always puts on a good show.

Because the winds have been so high, we haven’t left the boat very much. Yesterday we watched in horror as a really nice little Catalina 30 dragged anchor through the kelp. We got in the dinghy and motored over to the boat, but there was no owner name or contact info on any windows. I sat in the cockpit and kept track of the boat with our laser range finder, watching it get further and further away. The owners finally came back to the boat in time; a big relief to us. We kind of don’t like to leave Galapagos on her own in high winds, even though we have an excellent 85 pound Mantus anchor. So we’ve been anchorage- bound and you know what that means! We have to find entertainment.

Sometimes I wish we had a video game system on board. I’m serious! I’m thinking something like the Nintendo WII would be so much fun.  I could do some Wii Sports games, or something like that. Maybe a little Mario Cart. It would be pretty fun to do Wii Bowling or Tennis, or especially Boxing on board our boat. Alas, we left that stuff behind at the house. We have to make our own games.

I believe this to be a Great Egret.

We played two games today: Kelp Dodge, and Exotic Bird Bingo. Kelp Dodge is the game we play motoring through this anchorage. There are many big rafts of beautiful kelp here. This kelp is dense and heavy and strong, just like rope. We have a new dinghy engine (A Suzuki 2.5HP Longshaft) and we’re pretty attached to it already. The idea of arms of kelp winding themselves around our tiny propeller gives us the shudders. So we dodge the kelp thusly: the person in the bow of the dinghy uses hand signals to guide the driver through the kelp safely. If you win, you get to keep your engine in good shape, plus you get to see a lot of cool life forms. Points are lost when the engine noticeably bogs down because the driver has run through instead of around the plants. Bonus points are awarded for not hitting the sea otters or scaring them away.

Kelp Dodge is a pretty fun game. It will get you to the other side of the bay safely and improves team work.  But my most favorite boat game is Exotic Bird Bingo. This game takes a keen eye, a steady hand, and a fast shutter speed. Levels of complexity involve being on a moving boat, being in wind,  riding big swells while the driver swerves to avoid kelp, and being able to follow a single bird in the view finder until it does what you’re waiting for. You lose a bingo chip for falling overboard, getting salt spray on the camera,  or dropping the camera.

An Elegant Tern, I believe. Correct me if you know for sure otherwise.

Scoring is done at the computer when the photos are loaded and you see what you have.  When a perfect photo appears on the screen, you shout, ‘bingo!!’ and do a happy dance. Cheating by using the field guides to birds is perfectly acceptable. If you’d like to play, here’s a great species list to get you started. The bird must be identifiable in the photo and not simply part of a larger scene. The bird must be in focus also. This game is similar to Pokemon Go because you want to capture them all, but in the end it’s more educational. I’m pretty happy with how my Bingo card is filling out in this anchorage. Today I learned a new bird: The Willet, a demure little sandpiper type bird, the color of sand.

The little demure Willet.

Tomorrow we will take a costly Uber back into Monterey to Costco to pick up that dratted hearing aid. The weather is looking good, with milder conditions coming in for the next several days and the swells subsiding to a mild roar. We’ll leave this anchorage day after tomorrow. Next stop, San Simeon, unless we change our minds.

More gratuitous photos.

And some that are not birds. 

We learned that the ‘blonde’ sea otters are actually the older wiser sea otters.

 

 

The Monterey Days

We dropped anchor on September 24 in Monterey. Everyone we know told us we’d love Monterey, but to be honest, I listen to those things with only half an ear. That’s because tastes differ. For instance, many of those people also loved San Fransisco. But I’m not much of a city girl, especially on a boat, and while I was glad to have the opportunity to experience the city from the fairly protected (a term I use very loosely here) anchorage at Aquatic Park, I was more than ready to leave by the time we had our window of opportunity. But I was happy to stay in Monterey for awhile.

On the corner of the commercial pier.

The pace of life is more casual here, we’ve had ‘shorts and t shirts’ weather, and there is more visible sea life here than anyplace I’ve ever been. More than anything, for me this trip is about seeing wildlife. If you’re into seeing whales and sea lions, seals, otters, and sea birds, this is the place to be. Last night, dinghying back from shore, we floated over thousands of beautiful Sea Nettles. We watch otters from the deck of the boat. We watched whales feeding from the observation deck of the aquarium. We’ve seen so many whales this far south that we now refer to the ‘daily whale’. If I ever get complacent about these kinds of things, it will be time to just sell up and go home.

Sea Nettles by the boat.

While in Monterey we took in the famous Monterey Bay Aquarium. At 50$ a head, it’s a pricey thing to do, but completely worth it. We spent the entire day there and were doubly glad we went when we realized they had a Baja Peninsula exhibit featuring the land and sea animals of Baja, Mexico. I’ve got to buy that wetsuit so I can do some snorkeling!

There are some difficulties to visiting Monterey by boat but overcoming them is worth it.  The anchorage is completely exposed. In settled weather, it’s terrific. If you get heavy wind and swell from the north, like we are getting ready for, then you will want better cover. We’ve tucked around the corner at Pebble Beach for now but if there is room, the marina would be a good choice, especially for smaller boats.

Feeding time at the kelp forest in the aquarium.

Monterey Harbor is extremely densely crowded with boats. Our friends on S/V Blue from Gig Harbor picked up an end tie slip in the municipal marina for their big Cal 2-46. An end tie slip would be the only slip I’d be comfortable with at this point. There is also Fisherman’s Wharf, which is controlled by the marina. There is not a lot of room on the wharf, but it is centrally located and if you can get on it, would be a good place to be. Unfortunately there was a cruise ship due when we were there, and they clear the wharf 24 hours in advance of a cruise ship. The marina was full, so anchoring was actually our only option, even though it’s also our preferred option. Be prepared for it to be your only option, too.

If you anchor out, you’ll want to find a place to put your dinghy and that’s also a bit of a problem. There is a very rough,small dinghy dock on Fisherman’s Wharf. When we went over to take a look at it, it was already well packed with dinghies. I’m not sure we could have found a place to tie on as the dock is fairly small for a place that sees that much usage. Other than that, there are no public dinghy docks we found. Our best bet was to ask permission to leave our dinghy on K dock the first day. It’s right by the marina office and has public access. Because they were full and could not accommodate us, the harbormaster gave us permission to leave our dinghy there for a couple of hours. I’m not sure they liked it, but they said, ‘OK’, with the understanding that K dock is not a secure location. We do lock both our dinghy and our engine when we leave it. 

Since S/V Blue was in the marina, what worked well was to leave our dinghy at their dock between their bow and the dock. We always found a way to get into the marina to retrieve it, even when they were not with us. There is a dinghy dock inside the marina if you have a friend on the other side of the gate.

As I write this we’ve scooted around the corner to Pebble Beach to avoid the winds and big swell that are going to be happening for the next three days. We’ll have to find a way to get into Monterey before Monday because we have some packages waiting in an Amazon Locker that have to be picked up before then. Meanwhile, Humpback whales are feeding in the shallows close to the rocks, within easy view of our boat. I think it’s time to get the kayak down.

The touristy Fisherman’s Wharf, seen from the lovely seaside trail.

S/V Galapagos out.