By the time we got to Año Nuevo, we had perfect sailing conditions. Winds about 20 knots from the northwest and swells going in the same direction. Unfortunately, it was going to get spicier out there and we were not looking for an overnight experience just then. Año Nuevo offered protection from the north and was also on my list of places I wished we had spent time at in 2017. At that time, all I knew was that there was a population of Elephant Seals there and I wanted to see some. Now that I have seen a lot of these seals, I just wanted to see what else it had on offer. We were not disappointed.
Adolescent elephant seals at ano nuevo
When it comes to ‘protection’ in an anchorage, we have learned long ago that no one does quiet anchorages like the Pacific Northwest. You can almost always find an anchorage that is well protected from almost any weather, as well as the accompanying swells that wrap around the end points of land. Not so when you are on the Pacific Coast, but that’s OK. We are easy to please in the short term and expect a little discomfort in exchange for a priceless experience.
Año Nuevo is basically a ‘roadstead’ anchorage, which means that while you can anchor there, you will have less protection than you would in a harbor. Fine. We’ll take it. There was a north wind in gale territory coming and all we wanted was to get behind some land. Might it be rolly? Maybe. But we’d be out of the worst of it. The bottom is flat and sandy and you just need to watch out for the big patches of kelp. No problema. Anchor down, we settled in to do some fine wildlife watching, hoping for a chance to get out to Año Nuevo Island for a closer look. You are not allowed to go ashore there but that’s ok. Believe me, you probably don’t want to.
Here’s the wide open anchorage. She still looks strange to me without her mizzen mast. But the only time we’ve missed it is when I do a photograph.
We got a taste of the abilities of our new dinghy and engine the next morning before too much wind piped up. With our new faster dinghy platform we were able to motor over to the island off the point where the old light keeper’s house still stands; a testament to a time when houses were so sturdily built. Dating to the very early 1900’s, the dwelling for the light keepers was built when congress was asked to apportion money to expand the housing on Año Nuevo Island because two light keeper families were trying to live in what amounted to one small house. The point was made that if the country wanted people to be light keepers to help keep ships safe, they needed to do more to make them comfortable. So congress approved 6000$ to build a large house, big enough to accommodate two keepers and their families.
And what a lovely house it is! Only needs a lick of paint!
Unfortunately for the light keepers, no one asked the seal and sea lion population what they thought of the plan. So much effort was spent trying to keep the creatures out of the house and gardens it’s a wonder anyone had time to tend to the navigation light. I’m imagining much hilarity ensued and I’m thinking the whole shenanigan would have made a fine comedy back in maybe 1968. Something on the order of “Gilligan and the Sea Lions”. The imagination goes wild.
No mention is made of the pelican poo, but take my word about the stench.
The keepers were forbidden from killing the beasts due to public outcry (even then!) so they had to put up with co-existing as best they could. Here’s what one newspaper published in 1916:
“When he opens the door troops of young sea lions march into the house, and at meal time the entire colony surrounds his domicile, barking for admittance. Sleep is difficult, he declares, for the slightest disturbance in the night is a signal for a sea lion chorus which can be heard all over the island.” Can you just imagine Lovey and Thurston Howell, III as they tried to make cozy with a sea lion? Someone please make this film! Yeah, I’m dating myself. I know.
No mention is made of the stench of seal, sea lion, and bird poo that covers the island, but I can tell you that being downwind of the place on a warm day makes you wonder how anyone would survive living there as a human. The place was abandoned in 1948 and what is left still stands today. It’s hauntingly beautiful by sunset. Read a bit about the interesting history of this place, from which website I got my information, here.
Really, the best way to see this island.
We didn’t stay long. One or two nights; they all run together. We left on a foggy morning when the resident Humpbacks were feeding nearby. We’d had a great view of them from the back of the boat feeding close by the previous afternoon. I noted at the time that we had seen many Humpback whales in our time, but these seemed like the biggest we had observed. I was not wrong. 
Two at once.
And something special about seeing them in the fog. We put the boat in neutral and sat for awhile. I like to keep the engine on so they know we are there. just in case they don’t.
It’s a monster. A once in a lifetime shot and so much better without having to make it small for the blog.
Currently we are in Monterey, where we have been for a week. We were ready to leave today but winds stronger than forecast filled in from the southwest and after poking our nose around the corner for a look, we decided another day in Monterey would not come amiss. It was the right choice as we sit here in sporty conditions that, were we headed out to sea, would be great sailing. We got fueled up, watered up, and used their pump out, so, you know, we’re fine here. We even got showers.
We were feeling kind of anxious to get down to the northern most Channel Islands until we looked at the extended forecast. If that forecast holds, we would not be having a good time there next week. This is fine.
Our little Monterey friend who hangs by the boat on occasion. Adorable.
S/V Galapagos standing by on channel 16.