Unlimited Weekend

We’ve just returned home from a fabulous weekend! How many days make a weekend, anyway? 2? 3?  An infinite number? It feels to us like at least 6.

Friday evening I met Mike down at Moonrise after work. We decided we were going to leave Friday evening because the tides and currents would be lousy against us on Saturday morning and it’s a long way to Olympia. We were taking Moonrise down to our capital city to sit in front of the yacht broker’s office where they get a lot of foot traffic. The wooden boat festival was going to be there for the weekend, drawing thousands of people. It would be a good time for our boat to be seen, plus we thought we’d get to see some very cool old boats. Regular readers will understand that we feel a special ‘something’ for specific wooden boats, and that ‘something’ hasn’t gone away. So a weekend of boat drooling sounded like a good plan.

I told Mike if we buy the right kind of boat, he will need one of these as a tender.

I told Mike if we buy the right kind of boat, he will need one of these as a tender.

We shouldn’t have been surprised by what turned out to be the classic ‘slow motorboat ride to China’ because the winds blew all last week, so they were all used up, leaving none left for this weekend. But the trusty Westerbeke made it to Eagle Island and we picked up a mooring ball next to a group of small motor craft, rafted up together. Words of wisdom: if you want a quiet evening, do not even think about mooring next to something like this. I knew it, but we did it anyway. Still, after they drunk themselves into some sort of stupor and blew their speakers out, we had a peaceful night’s rest and were off to an early start on Saturday morning, against the tide, but already halfway there.20130512_34

Good thing the scenery around here is outstanding because it’s a long way to Olympia on a Cal 34. I’m not complaining though, because a day on the boat, even motoring, is better than the best day doing regular work. And even with the 2.4 knots we were going through some of the passages, we still managed to get to Olympia by 11:00. As we pulled into the slip at the brokerage, the decision was made that we would leave Moonrise in Olympia where she was sure to be seen by lots of people looking for a nice boat rather than try to get back to Tacoma the following day. After all, that’s where we found her 5 years ago. We’d figure out how to get ourselves to Tacoma somehow, but meanwhile we would enjoy the wooden boats and the festival. Life was good, the sun was shining, and we were on a boat weekend! What could life possibly offer that was better than this?

Seeing Bald Eagles fishing at the beginning of a trip is good luck for me.

Seeing Bald Eagles fishing at the beginning of a trip is good luck for me.

That was not a rhetorical question. Life actually DID offer something better by way of the wooden sailing vessel Odyssey, the 90 foot 1938 Sparkman and Stephens (yes, you read that correctly) sailboat that belongs to the Tacoma Sea Scouts. We love this boat! She left Tacoma just after we did, and for awhile we got to be on the same water with her. But she is very fast, so she had been docked overnight by the time we arrived in Olympia.20130512_17

Our relationship with the Sea Scouts, while  tenuous, is of long standing. Andrew participated for awhile in his youth, but he is really not a group sort of person and it has been Mike who has been involved with them over the years. He helps them out with their website. So he knows some of the adults who work with the scouts. And he managed to get us a ride back to Tacoma on board this classic ship! Happy Mother’s Day to me!!

Now I know why these wheels have spokes. It's not as easy as it looks.

Now I know why these wheels have spokes. It’s not as easy as it looks. You can’t tell by looking but I am having a great time.

Oh yes, you know very well how we felt about that. It was fabulous! If you go to the link and look at the photo of Odyssey under sail, I think you will notice a resemblance between this ship and another one we’ve written about recently. Go ahead. Do it now. I will wait.

See what I mean?

In return for their generosity, I’m going to write up an article ‘reviewing’ that boat and the Sea Scouts program in the hopes that it will draw attention to this worthy cause. Mike is going to revamp their website and make sure they have a Paypal Donation button because this is a great organization and they have a spectacular boat that needs work. They need money, and they deserve to have it. Not only do they keep a love of sailing alive in the young people who belong, they also keep alive the history of this beautiful boat, which was in service in the Navy during WWII. If that sounds familiar it’s because it is. If it were not for the Sea Scouts this boat would be languishing in some slip in Seattle, rotting away like another boat we know about.

So we enjoyed tremendously the trip to Tacoma from Olympia. We were all a little sleepy as we cast off the lines at 6:30 AM.  This turned out to be perfect as it got us back to Tacoma before lunch. A generous Sea Scout Connor ferried us across the water to our old marina, where our cars awaited.

To sail to far away places...

To sail to far away places…Yes, Mike got a turn, too, even though it isn’t Father’s Day.

But our weekend wasn’t over. We trundled back to Olympia in the car to clean out the boat and retrieve all of our belongings. Since we’ve been keeping her in ‘show perfect’ condition, we’ve had to load her up with sailing gear and food before taking off for the weekend. So there was work to do. When we arrived at the brokerage we found that someone was scheduled to see Moonrise already! We made quick work of getting the stuff off the boat and giving her a quick wipe down, then skedaddled out of there and went to get lunch. When we got back we found that the broker had already shown it once, and there was currently someone else looking at it. Wow! Moonrise was in Olympia for less than a day and already two people were looking at her. This is more action that she would get in a month in Tacoma.

I had to show you this cool wash basin in the Captain's quarters. You fill with water from the spigot, then it drains into the bilge when you fold the sink away. So cool!

I had to show you this cool wash basin in the Captain’s quarters. You fill with water from the spigot, then it drains into the bilge when you fold the sink away. So cool!

Our car loaded up with gear, we once more found our way to Tacoma and to our house feeling like we’d had a great weekend, filled with sights, sounds, and adventures, not to mention food. I will pay for that this week.  We’ll also have much cheaper moorage in Olympia until the boat sells, so we will be saving money. It doesn’t get much better than that.

Moonrise, in her new slip, ready to go as usual.

Moonrise, in her new slip, ready to go as usual.

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Lessons Learned

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Adventuress, at the Tacoma Maritime Museum. At least Flying Gull isn’t this big.

Now that the debacle that was Flying Gull is almost over, except for the wishing it had worked out part, we’ve had time to reflect on what we learned about ourselves from that little situation. We’ve had time to go over in our minds what it was about that boat that made us go so far as to risk, and then lose, a goodly sum of money in order to take a chance on her, and what it is that she represents to us that makes us still sad that it didn’t work out.

Today’s post is written from our windy anchorage off Vashon Island. We took Moonrise out into this fine weather we have today, 80 degrees and a small craft advisory with winds gusting to 28 knots. We had all kinds of fun getting here, practicing our heavy weather sailing skills! And as this is my first time on Moonrise since the test sail on Flying Gull it seemed a good time to reflect on what I loved about that boat.

She’s a Big Girl 

The most surprising thing is that I like bigger boats. I never even considered wanting a boat that big until I met the Gull. We were looking for a boat in the 39-40 foot range, certainly not 55 feet. And now that doesn’t seem all that big to me. That fact is scary just a bit, but only because I know the costs go up with a larger vessel. Still, now that I’ve been on that boat, our Cal 34 certainly feels small to me. I simply cannot wrap my head around the idea of going offshore in this boat after being on Flying Gull. She felt strong and safe, her motion was gentle (from what limited experience I had on board her).  It was a little like riding on the back of a whale. So you’ll not be surprised when, in the future, we look at boats that are larger than 40 feet. Maybe it was actually because of her size rather than in spite of it that I liked her the moment I stepped on board.

Mike's turn at the wheel.

Mike’s turn at the wheel.

A Lovely Room With a View

And then there was the wheelhouse. If I had to choose one thing about that boat that sold me right off the bat, it was the wheelhouse. I cannot express enough how much I loved that cabin. It’s true that it also presented some problems, such as having a difficult entry that was off center to the boat. But the idea of being able to get in out of the weather and still enjoy a view and be able to steer the boat seemed like a dream come true to me.  Not having a way to get in from weather means that the brunt of steering and sailing many times has fallen to Mike, who has more of a tolerance for being cold and wet than I do. And it’s not only the cold and wet times that count, it’s also just getting out of the wind and sun. I like sailing, and I like being in the wind, but when it goes on for hours and hours with no let up and there is no way to get protected from it, it wears me out. Even today I would have loved to have a wheelhouse.

There are plenty of sailboats with a pilothouse around, but it’s rare to find one where the pilothouse actually looks GOOD on the boat and adds to the design rather than looking like someone added a box to the top of an otherwise beautiful hull. And I’ve never seen one that offered the space that this one did. That might be an issue at sea, where you might want to have added handholds for safely moving about, but at anchor or around here it would be dead wonderful! Whereas most of the pilothouses I’ve seen probably detract from the sailing features of a boat, this one would not have. It seemed like having my cake and eating it, too.

In addition, anyone up in the Pacific Northwest knows that we have very few months out of the year where it’s comfortable to sit in an open cockpit. This means that our boat gets used precious little during the fall, winter, and early spring. So… most of the year she sits at the dock. I guess that’s why so many people have motorboats up here. But we don’t want that. We like sailing. And having this wheelhouse would have guaranteed that we would use the boat more, even if it was harder to get her out of the slip.

These are the conditions that greeted us today as we entered Commencement Bay. Wierd! Seemed more like the Strait of Juan de Fuca. Big waves, high wind.

These are the conditions that greeted us today as we entered Commencement Bay. Weird! Seemed more like the Strait of Juan de Fuca. Big waves, high wind.

Flexible Accommodations

Flying Gull had room for my whole family to be together without being on top of one another. I’ve said it before: this is important to me. From the first we have been looking at boats with two cabins for this very reason.  I know there are many people who do not want to encourage guests on their boat. But if those guests are my kids and their friends, I want to encourage it. Her cabins were multipurpose, except for the captain’s quarters, deemed the ‘Ricky and Lucy’ cabin. The forward berth could have doubled as a workshop. The navigation room had berths for two and doubled as a second salon with a dining table. I consider the wheelhouse to be the ‘first’ salon.

Working for a Living

Flying Gull offered multiple possibilities for working from the boat. This is something that I have considered many times, but Moonrise is not set up well for that. I’ve seen a couple of clients on Moonrise, but it’s just not very satisfying. Flying Gull, on the other hand, would have been the perfect office for me. The wheelhouse is large enough to see clients comfortably, and there is even a boarding gangplank that is original to the boat, making access to the deck an easy thing. I had pretty clear visions of closing up my office when my lease is up next year and moving it onto the boat.

The navigation area is actually a true desk, complete with a space for hanging file folders. As I write this post, we are anchored on Moonrise in windy conditions just off Vashon Island. I’m using the fold down table inside the cabin because it’s so windy that I can’t work outside. On Flying Gull Mike and I would have had a dedicated place to write and for me to do the paperwork ubiquitous to my practice. Mike is a programmer and has considered that after he finishes up being handcuffed to Boeing he might take on some contract work that he could do from the boat. That nav station would have been perfect for him. And, of course, if I wanted to work from the wheelhouse, I would have a protected 360 degree water view. I could keep an eye on the boat and my surroundings and also type this post. Excuse me while I heave a great big sigh.

Just practicing with my longer lens from the front of the boat. Hanging on with one arm, photographing with the other. Fun times.

Just practicing with my longer lens from the front of the boat. Hanging on with one arm, photographing with the other. Fun times.

A Classic Beauty

What else is there to say about this? We like boats that have classic lines. We want to look at our own boat and sigh with wonder.

A Woman of Character

This really speaks to that whole ‘feeling’ thing that no one can adequately describe.  I remember the first time we saw our house. It was a complete mess. The woman who lived there was in her 90’s and was slowly being poisoned by carbon monoxide, such was the state of the furnace. There was cat pee on the walls. They were covered in nicotine residue. It had popcorn ceilings that had seen better days.  And that was just the EASY stuff! I know people thought we were nuts moving from a recently completed, beautiful house into this one. But this house offered things our previous home did not.  And there was that ‘feeling’ about the house. We knew we’d have to do a lot of work and we were right. Looking at the photos of it now, you would hardly know it was the same house.

But it is. We had the ‘feeling’ about that house. It had good bones, and it just felt like a happy house, in spite of the sadness of the state of the woman living there, and in spite of the fact that her husband had suffered from alzheimers disease. The house itself felt happy and solid. It had a good structure, but needed some repairs, and certainly it needed to be remodeled. Now it’s really a lovely home and is an asset to the neighborhood instead of being an eyesore.

Maybe that’s how we felt about Flying Gull. Certainly her history gives her a ‘coolness factor’ that cannot be bought for any money. We like a house with history, and I guess we like a boat with history. She has character. Sometimes that means more work, but the rewards are priceless.

If you get the idea from this post that I’m still sprung on that boat, you’d be right. I have to stop writing about it or I’ll talk myself right back into wanting her again. I hope we can find another boat that has enough of the features of Flying Gull to make the walking away worth it.

Just a small sample of what was NOT there when we moved into this house.

Just a small sample of what was NOT there when we moved into this house.

Only Love Can Break Your Heart*

What do the following words mean to you? “Professionally maintained for the last 40 years.” To me, they mean just what they say, and the implication is that a vessel with this description is one that has been cared for well. This is how Flying Gull was advertised in her Yachtworld listing. That may have been true when this boat was kept in Rochester, NY, but it’s not true now.  That statement, among many others in the listing, proved to be false and thus our hearts are broken as we have to walk away from this boat that we both truly love.

She is completely beautiful and worth taking care of.

She is completely beautiful and worth taking care of.

I’d like to make the point here that we should have known that anything that looks too good to be true probably is. More’s the pity. Hindsight being the 20/20 vision that it is, there were clues. For instance, the new paint job on this boat is already beginning to bubble in a couple of small places. Then there was the paint on the bronze trim along the edge of the stern. Why would anyone leave paint all over a bronze piece like that? We had strong feelings about the quality of a paint job that was done in such a sloppy manner. What’s on the surface is often an indication of what’s underneath.

There was the owner’s story about the rigging and how two of the shrouds were installed backwards. And they had been that way for several years. The owner was not sure he wanted to put the boat to a test sail because of this rigging issue. He didn’t want to stress the rig. Excuse me?  Again, why was this not fixed? We began to be very wary, but by this time, we were in too deep. We loved and wanted the boat. We had a shared vision of owning that boat and, after all, it’s an easy fix, right? We would have to get a rigger out there eventually, right? So we agreed to split the cost for a rigger to come out and take a look because not being able to sail a sailboat during the test sail? Well, you get the idea here. The good news is that the rigging is in excellent condition. It’s the one thing on the boat that is really, really good. The bad news is that there was no reason to have to hire a rigger just then, before we even owned the boat, since the shrouds were NOT backwards at all. We began to get seriously worried about what the survey might show but if things looked as good as the rigging, we’d be boat owners soon. 20130423_125 (2)

The test sail was a bit of a comedy of errors. True, this boat backs out like a dream, nice and straight. I was beginning to feel confidence. And I did like the way a heavier boat felt. But we never actually got to set all of the sails correctly. As a result, this boat didn’t want to tack. That’s right, we would get going a bit, then need to tack, and she just didn’t want to do it. Probably that’s because we couldn’t get up enough speed in the amount of space we had, and probably it’s also because she really needed to have the mizzen sail up along with a head sail. She was not balanced and the sails were definitely in too tight for the broad reach we should have been on. The surveyor was frustrated, and so were we. The owner, who, of course, wants to sell his boat, focused on how straight the boat tracks. And he was completely correct! She tracks straight and true. It’s turning that is the problem.

She also has a steering mechanism that is, apparently, old school stuff so it takes awhile for her to respond. We talked to the surveyor about this and he said it reminded him of an old schooner he’d worked on long ago. He thinks probably a little attention to the mechanism would fix the problem, but that’s yet another system we would have to inspect separately. Still, I loved the feel of the boat and that few minutes where she was actually at a decent heel and we were moving so smoothly through the water showed me what she could do. Also, I had no trouble raising the mainsail, which I was nervous about. With a longer winch handle I think it would have been even easier.  I still loved the boat and I know she can sail. Sparkman and Stephens do not design boats that sail like tanks.

Part of the steering mechanism and the emergency tiller stub. This is the area Tony could not get to where he thinks there may be rot.

Part of the steering mechanism and the emergency tiller stub. This is the area Tony could not get to where he thinks there may be rot.

No, it was the survey that gave us our ‘come to Jesus’ moment. Or three. And it was painful, I can tell you. There is rot. And this means she has NOT been maintained. She has been left to sit while organisms have been left to grow. Some of the rot is not bad, and the Tony thought it could be easy to take care of. But the killer was the rot under the sole in the galley. Apparently you can put your hand through some of it. In a word: Bad.  To fix this, the entire galley would have to be taken out, the sole removed, the beams replaced, and then everything put back in place. Such was my love of the boat that all I could think was ‘this will be a great way to redesign the galley the way we want it’. But Mike had other ideas and I could see that he was getting further and further from feeling good about this.

The other area of major concern is possible rot in the transom. This could sink the boat if not repaired. Tony was unable to get down into the area to really take a good look, but he photographed it and we can see why he is concerned. He’s a very experienced guy. If he’s worried, then so are we. There is already one place where there has been a repair on the transom. You’d think that a boat that had been ‘professionally maintained’ would not be in such a condition but it’s evident that some of this stuff has been there awhile. These things may happen quickly in the right conditions, but they do not happen overnight. They happen with neglect.

We know the masts were pulled a few years ago, painted and then reset. It’s nice to have a pretty paint job. But like too much makeup on an old face, a pretty paint job cannot hide the reality underneath. So when we discovered that the mizzen mast was hanging off the mast step by a considerable amount, we shouldn’t have been surprised.

Then there is the electrical. There are hot wires that are not connected well and are hazardous, and in one area of the boat the surveyor describes the electrical as a ‘rat’s nest’. And he’s right. It’s just not acceptable on any level, even though the electrical panels themselves are terrific.  Only one of the exterior light works. The navigation lights were disconnected when the rigging was replaced and haven’t been reconnected since then. This boat was surely not listed as a ‘project’ boat, but it should have been.  In addition there are three different electrical systems, all with different voltages. Just the thought of having to rewire the whole boat made Mike take some big steps back.

Unfortunately the bowsprit, too, is rotten.

Unfortunately the bowsprit, too, is rotten.

Finally there is that engine. It blew loads of white smoke the entire time. So much white smoke that when we crossed underneath one of the drawbridges, the bridgeman blew his whistle at us 5 times. He thought we must be on fire. Great. Allegedly this engine has been rebuilt, but we never saw any documentation of that. We would have to get an engine survey and, frankly, we just didn’t have the heart. On the plus side, the engine ran well and was very responsive. I do want to be fair.

The surveyor also had some concerns about taking this boat on blue water. His concerns were valid ones, but they were also things I think we could have addressed, such as installing hand holds on the cabin top and in the wheel house. He was concerned that the wheelhouse and the aft cabin, in particular, were spaces one wouldn’t want to fall across because they are large. He also had concern about the entry of the wheelhouse being on one side, worrying that in a knockdown situation on that side, the interior of the boat could be compromised. I think these things are to be kept in mind, but rather than give up the boat, I would look for solutions such as what we would need to do to protect that entry way, using a different way to enter the boat while at sea, etc.

At the end of the day, it seemed like the price we were prepared to pay for this boat was for a boat that had been well kept, not for a boat that had been neglected. As the projects began to mount, Mike and I were both pretty concerned about being able to handle all of the repairs that needed to be made. I admit Mike was more concerned than I was, but he is generally more practical by nature. And I knew he loved the boat, too. We always said we’d be prepared to walk away, regardless of the almost 2000$ we put into having her rigging looked at, having her surveyed, and hauled out. That’s cheap compared to what this has cost us emotionally.20130423_91 (2)

We were divided as to whether to make another offer, much lower than the first, taking into consideration the amount of work that needed to be done. I had suggested we get an idea of how much these repairs that needed doing right away were going to cost, then make an offer based on that amount. But somehow, that didn’t happen and we ended up simply withdrawing our offer. When the reality of it hit, it was devastating. Why do boats mean so much? It’s flipping ridiculous sometimes.

Two days later I still have a hard time even thinking about it, much less seeing photos of Flying Gull. We got used to the idea of her being ‘ours’ before she really was, a mistake I will endeavor not to make in the future.  I don’t want to think about her sitting there being neglected and going to rot when I know what a special boat she really is. Mike doesn’t want that, either. But we would literally have to be able to get her for about 20% of her listing price in order to be able to pay a shipwright to repair her hull, a mechanic to look at the engine, and a marine electrician to rewire her, because we don’t have the time to rebuild a boat to that degree ourselves. At least that’s what we think. I haven’t had the heart to call anyone to ask what these things would cost.

As long as she is still on the market I’m going to wonder if we have done the right thing. I know she would be a lot of work, and expensive to moor. And, of course, big boats cost more to haul out and all that. All boat owners are aware of that unless money is no object for them. But my heart does not care about those kinds of things. My heart just loves that boat. And that’s why it’s broken just now.

A favorite photo.

A favorite photo.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

*Lyrics by Neil Young