Ghost Island

We dropped anchor at the stroke of midnight under the watchful presence of Volcano Barceno. Sailing under a full moon the sky was bright enough for us to feel comfortable anchoring at night, considering the cove is wide open with no hazards. Still we crept carefully forward, the island pale as a ghost, all colors of grey and white in the moonlight. It was like approaching a lunar mountain and I turned to Mike and said, “This place is giving me the spook! It’s like a ghost island. ” Gliding to a stop in 30 feet of water we dropped anchor and felt it set, finally here at this place we had been dreaming of visiting since last year.

This morning we awoke to water crisp and clear as blue crystal against the grey monolith of the volcano and a beach with sand the rich brown color of mink. From the boat the sand looks silky soft but that may just be wishful thinking. It’s stunning here. Stark and wild, the land raw with its newness. This is a young island. A great crowd of elegant and serious Masked Boobies has taken residence just above the lava flow. Frigate birds and Tropic birds share space with both Brown and the occasional Blue Footed Booby. But the Masked Boobies steal the show here, fine black and white plumage surrounding a yellow beak and piercing eyes. Among Boobies, the Masked Boobie is the most refined.

Mike snorkeled around the boat today and barely missed swimming with a giant manta ray making way through the anchorage. I saw it from my shark lookout on deck and pointed it out but it disappeared before long. (I generally keep an eye out for sharks in a new place. None here yet. ) Tomorrow is another day and we plan to snorkel the point where the rocks look terribly inviting and interesting. We are sure to see some wonderful animals.

There is another boat here and we chatted with them this evening. They are also on their way to Hawaii but are on a fast catamaran so we may leave together but they will quickly outpace us. Still it’s nice to have people in this wild anchorage. Both of us will be here until the winds fill in for Hawaii. No hurry on my end. I could spend some time here.

Sent from Iridium Mail & Web.

4 thoughts on “Ghost Island

  1. Sounds so wonderful so hope you can stay a while. I continue to be envious but enjoy the voyage vicariously from my chair by the fireplace. Don’t worry about keeping up with a multi hull. On our trip from Bora Bora to the northern Cook Islands we passed a multi hull from Australia. Mind you we were Going downwind in 40 knots with just our headsail half furled in. Kind of a hoot to hear them complaining about it being so rough after almost competing a circumnavigation. We had just a few waves break over the stern but felt so safe….you have an amazing cruising boat that loves to be driven hard.

  2. Sounds very very interesting… you’ve been lucky to be able to stop there!

    Not sure how “young” Benedicto is… it was first sighted in 1533….

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