Loreto in Numbers

My friend Ellen over at The Cynical Sailor and His Salty Sidekick does these monthly posts called “ (Name of month) in Numbers”. They are amusing posts about lots of different things she has counted in her life in the last month. How many cookies she has eaten; how many times she has hailed people on the radio, how many cool things she has found on the ‘free pile’ at her marina. You get the idea. Those posts always give me pleasure. I’m shamelessly riffing off her idea for this post. This also gives me an opportunity to plug her new book, Murder at the Marina; the first in a series of cozy mysteries she is writing. I am hopeful they will be the grownup equivalent to Nancy Drew books. I’ve preordered the first one and I hope you will, too. I’m dead excited to know a real live author.

Anyway, we’ve been hanging out in the Loreto area and having a grand time. Here are some numbers associated with this part of our trip.

Number of weeks we’ve been hanging out in Puerto Escondido/Loreto and the islands right here: 6. When we find an area we like, we tend to stay awhile. We’ve been here long enough now to feel like we are familiar with the area.

Number of stingrays we’ve seen this trip: at least 50.

Number of guests we’ve had aboard Galapagos: 4.  We discovered how fun it is to have guests. We hope for more next season.

Number of largish grocery stores in Loreto: 3. Most people know about El Pescador, which caters to the gringos here and carries items from Costco, if you can believe that. But the good shredded meat by SuKarne is not at that store; at least not when we’ve been there. To find that, you have to walk down the street to the Super Ley. Their produce is also better than El Pescador’s, as a rule. But El Pescador has incredibly good bacon and ground beef.  Then there is Mi Bodega, which is further down the same street that Super Ley is on. Now we’ve been here long enough to know which stores have which good things. It’s almost like we’re locals!

Mi Bodega. It has the biggest parking lot, if not the largest selection of goods. But you can buy a mattress there. And also a blender.

Number of brands of cooked, packaged meat we tried before we found ‘the brand’: 5. Only SuKarne passes our taste, texture, and ingredient tests. It’s hot here and I don’t enjoy cooking and heating up the interior of the boat. So we have found these SuKarne meats to be terrific for easy chicken salads or tostadas, or tacos, or whatever.  They are high quality and delicious.

Number of brands of packaged meat we threw out because they didn’t look or taste like food to us: 2. One brand was so bad that I used it for a cold packs for my knee when I twisted it. The stuff inside, which was pictured as strips of steak for fajitas, was more like play dough in texture. It made a perfect icepack. But food? Not so much.  SuKarne is now our go-to brand of prepackaged, cooked meat, as well as marinated meat ready for the grill. Accept no substitutes.

This is the only brand. What you see in the photo is actually what you get. Just good shredded beef ready to go.

Number of times we tried to call the local recommended dentist before giving up: about 15. We tried all the combinations of numbers and prefixes. We finally had our friend call from his phone. He uses AT&T. We have T Mobile. I don’t know if that’s why we were telephone failures, but his call went through the first time. All I know is that making a phone call in Mexico is not a straight forward process. People have shown us flow charts, we’ve dialed all the prefixes and combination of prefixes. Sometimes things work, sometimes they don’t. I think it’s just part of being here.

Number of days in advance we had to wait for an appointment to get our teeth cleaned and checked: 1

Number of cavities we had: 0

Number of Pesos we were charged to have our teeth cleaned by the dentist using an ultrasonic tool and to be given a clean bill of dental health: 700 pesos each. In US dollars that’s about $36. The overhead is low. He has an office, good equipment, and not much else. No cushy chairs or TV screens blaring. No huge office staff. He does his own cleaning. No insurance nonsense. We loved it.

A modest waiting room. Do you really need something more than this?

Number of forms we had to fill out in the waiting room: 0. We walked into the modest waiting room, chose which one of us would go first, had a pleasant conversation about our dental health and history, answered brief questions about whether we were on medications and how often we took them, asked about our coffee intake, then got our teeth cleaned. It was outstanding. Not only that, but when our friend called the office from his cellphone, he was able to make the appointments for us with no problem. No questions asked. Just ‘Mike and Melissa? OK. We will see them at 10:00 and 1:00 on Wednesday. Gracias. ‘. Good lord. I thought I’d died and gone to heaven.

Number of dental x rays taken: 0, because we didn’t need any. He asked if we had any issues to be addressed like pain or sensitive teeth, etc. Then he checked the teeth for sensitive spots. Had there been any indication something was amiss, he would have taken x rays. But no need to go looking for problems unless there are concerns.

Number of cool old guys in a beat up pickup truck who stopped and offered us a ride to a restaurant for lunch: 1.

Walking to Enrique’s truck.

     This was a total hoot. After my dental appointment and a trip to the local Ferremar for some fishing lures,  we were standing on the street corner deciding which way to go when this old Chevy truck (and I mean OLD) pulled up to the stop sign and the guy asked if we needed directions. He was a local but spoke fluent English. We responded that we were considering lunch. “Perfect!”, he said. “I’m going to lunch now. Want to hop in and come along?”. Mike looked at me. ‘Want to go to lunch with this guy?’. I think Mike was in love with the guy’s truck. Well, why the hell not? So I said, ‘Sure.’. After all, he didn’t look like a murderer to me.
So we threw our bags in the big old truck bed and hopped in. He took us to Orlandos, which happens to be a favorite place of mine because they serve outstanding fish tacos and delicious margaritas. He went to park the truck and we got a table and ordered drinks.

At Orlando’s.

Turns out Enrique has lived in Loreto his whole life and his family owns some lovely property on the Malecon that they are planning to develop into a high end housing area. Houses (not condos) will sell for 1/2 million US and will be beachfront in Loreto. They also owned some nice property, which I had noticed previously, behind a hotel on the beach. He sold the property today to the hotel owners so they can expand. Looks like Loreto is growing. Enrique says it’s growing very fast.
He was a wealth of information about the real estate market here and buying propery while ‘gringo’. We had a very enjoyable lunch and then he drove us back to the dentist for Mike’s appointment. Sometimes you meet cool people when you take a chance.

Number of degrees of heat on the inside of the boat when we got back today: 90. I think summer is here? No? Still going to get hotter, you say?

Number of frozen margaritas I’ve had in the last 6 weeks: um… I’ve lost count. Just make up a number and call it good.

Number of ripe mangos that fell from the tree and landed at my feet: 1.  It’s mine now.

Number of days before we move further north. 1 We’ll be leaving this area tomorrow to move further north; ready to do more exploring. We plan to sail over to San Carlos and haul the boat out for some maintenance before sailing back down to Puerto Escondido and putting her on the mooring ball for a few months.

See you later, Loreto. We’ll be back.

S/V Galapagos, out.








9 thoughts on “Loreto in Numbers

  1. Cool! Sounds like you two are doing ok. It’s so different being back in the USA after 6 months in Mexico. Lynn and I both miss our boat and our friends. Keep having fun and be safe. See you in the fall.

  2. Play-dough textured meat – that sounds so vile 🙁 Glad you were able to make the best of it and use it as an ice pack.

    Thank you SOOOO much for the shout-out about Murder at the Marina and thank you so much for your support and encouragement. I can’t even begin to tell you how much it means to me. See, now I’m getting teary-eyed.

    I love your Nancy comments. My friend Chris (from Mango, Marley & Mermaids) explained what a cozy mystery was to her husband as “Nancy Drew for adults.” Mollie, my main character, is a lot kookier than Nancy and lacks her stylish wardrobe, but she’s a fearless gal who isn’t afraid to investigate mysterious goings-ons. I hope you enjoy it 🙂

    • I cannot wait to read it! I know it’s going to be good. And i’m excited you will be writing more of them. It’s so cool you’ve found your way with this!

  3. Telephone issues? Probably time to get a TelCel sim (we never had issues calling using TelCel… as long as we kept it topped up).

    My (blurry) recollection was that cell vs landlines had a different area code. Could that be it for your problems.

    Heading to Haida Gwaii next week….


    • I think that will be the plan for next season. We have Tmobile that includes Mexico and Canada but that’s kind of a joke when it comes to calling a Mexican number. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn’t. In this case, we were calling a land line. Have fun in Haida Gwaii!

  4. Hey guys. it was great to see you down in Loreto. We enjoyed the trip to Isla Carmen. And your new-found buddy picked a great restaurant in Orlando’s. It’s one of our favorites in town. And the “dos por uno” happy hour margies are a killer!

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